one of the things id like to do before l die is to learn to surf
good inf that l can catch a nice wave.
i imagine its like falling or floating.when l was a kid l was running
away from something With a gang of other kids and tripped and fell
down a 20 ft flight of concrete stairs.
everything went slow mo like the matrix it seamed to take around
5 minuets.it was amazing until l landed on my face .
is it like that ? l used to skate half pipes and thay say its
the same as surfing but l never got that free slow mo feeling
on a skateboard what do you think ?

the first wave you catch is pretty cool. even if it is only a small 1 footer on a 12 foot softt board. just watching the water rush by and feeling the power of the sea iaawesomee. l have only been surfing on and off for a year but l would imagine being in a barrel would be amazing.

Yes, its exactly like falling down a set of concrete stairs, thats how l describe it to everyone. However, people freqeuntly ask me why l continue to do it..

The best explanation l can think of is walking on water. In short, Jesus was really a surfer. Think about it, he had no job, no money, bummed around with 12 other dudes all the time, had a beard.

Anyway, only a surfer knows the feeling, there r not words (or l am not skilled enough to use them) to describe accurately what its like.

Well, l hope some day u do get to learn how to surf. And that u learn the right way, to start out by being completely comfortable in the ocean. As for what it feels like,.. l think the falling down the steps analogy is not really too close. It is very hard tp explain, & it puts a real strain on even the best writer is verbal skills. It is being extremely calm, & wildly exciting, all in the same instance. It does compress time & intensify focus. It is an unusual sensation, to move quickly across the water on a vessel propelled only by the kinetic energy transferred from the wave. No motor, no oar, no sail. And, it is different every single time. No two waves r ever alike. Even if l could describe some rides, there r thousands of others that l can not. l guess that why l want to share the experience. Giving someone the opportunity to ride a wave, what a neat gift.

Its PURE awesomeness! The feel of the wave powering you on is like ... you can not describe it.

You should definatly try it!

Now l feel like surfing!!

surfing is definetly something you want to do before you die. yes, it is like the matrix thing where you go slow mo and its awesome. you also feel like you are going like a hundred MPH at the same time. its really cool. l skate too and in my opinion, the feeling is so much better surfing than on the half pipe. just go out and surf and you wont want to give it up. hope this helps. have fun surfing!

What you should do is to buy or rent the movie Step Into Liquid and let the surfers describe it to you, they would do a better job and anyone who posts here.

l agree with trey ''Step Into liquid'' is an amazing documentary of surfers describing what it feels like to ride. You should definitely look into that

its so awsome you should so do it its like your are floating and you turn so easy you should do it