Pray for your life?

Surfing seems so awesome to me but l could not imagine being in that guys shoes... err... you get it
The picture would help...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3006/2469509221_46b2afdd66_o.jpg

umm what exactly is the question?

you do a manouver called a duck dive.
This is where you push the board deep under the wave and let it roll right over you.

That spot is called Waimea bay, & he aint surfing. He is ''body'' surfing. The inside break at Waimea is practically unrideable on a surf board, The guys out on the point r the ones surfing. These suicidal maniacs on the inside r either on a body board wearing swim fins or just plain swim fins. It takes a lifetime of conditioning & training to go big in hawaii, But if u committed to a training regimine tommorrow, & u do not smoke cigi's, l imagine you'd be ready to take a mild pounding this coming season.

Here if ur interested check out this:
http://surfline.com/surfaz/surfaz.cfm?id=941

You ditch the board and dive as deep as you can! Definitely pray. Thanks for the pic.

The best thing to do here is take a deep breath, dive deep, and hope for the best. Chances are he will swim right underneath this one.not sure about the next set though!

It looks like a chick. l think it is Waimea, but I´m not sure. Anyway, hard to tell if she has a board, from her position in the water it seems she does. Then again, wtf is she doing just watching? In order to duck dive, which is what she should be doing, you need to be paddling at the wave pretty hard for a wave like that. At the point shes at though, its going to break right on top of her, because shes an idiot. I'd probably ditch. Then again, l wouldnt be in that situation.

That is one HELL of a wave. Now l know there are not many breaks that can grind you up like that, but this picture should be used as an example to all of the poor little kids who get on this site and ask, '' l can skateboard, l am sure l can surf, can not l ?'' when they have never even seen the ocean.

Duck dive? Hell no, let go of the board and swim straight down for the reef, and hope there is nothing for your leash to get caught on.

swim under the wave, really deep to avoid being sucked back- um. swear a lot and pray. officially label myself as an idiot for going out when it is that big- and wonder why a wave that big would break in that shallow of water :]

just from being in california even the smaller ones hurt when you go under so that ones ganna kill!!!!!!!! do a duck dive or ditch the board!!