tell me the best feelings you've had in the water, are they happy feelings? lol

i've only been surfing a few times since l do not live close enough to water to go regularly, but l still love it. l love the feeling & rush u get from standing up that first time u catch a wave, the way adreniline covers up the pain from getting sent through a real life washing machine. nothing can compare to the feeling of flowing with the water & being at one with nature. the feeling of not knowing of what is gonna happen next, not knowing if you're a mile or 10 feet from a shark or other sea life. the mystery, the misserable feeling of being beaten against the bottom of the ocean, but then being able to get back up & try again. it is almost magical, it is the best feeling ever, & l can not wait until l move closer to the water so that l can surf more often. it is the happiest feeling ever.

l am a surfer and l just love the feeling of almost being nature. To ride with the wave and not fight it. To take a dare and the wind and the rush of the speed and knowing that sometimes their is only 3 feet of water below me makes me just love it.

I've been surfing for 44 years, probably many times ur age. The best feeling is that simple everyday feeling when l go surfing, which is just looking forward to get into the ocean & surf. When u surf, u forget about all of ur problems; it is a time that l find pure relaxation regardless of the issues that u sometimes confront in the water. What is on land stays on land, pure & simple.

As u get older there r many times that u forget about looking forward. Instead, u ponder about the past or something u r dreading that is ahead. With surfing, it keeps me looking forward with positive feelings.

l was bought up inland. When l left school l earned a bit of money then just headed off ''hanging loose''. l met up with some travelling surfers & we ended up crusing together for a while. They keep on hassling me to give it a go . but l could not swim . Being an ''inlander'' l was happy to sus out the beach is , a new experience for me, & go to some ''out of the way'' places. Eventually l got a good strong leg-rope with a dog collar buckled around my leg ., l did not trust velcro.
The first time l went out & just paddled around or watched the others from side on & got used to the feel of the board/sea. After about 2 hours they called it a day & went in. l had done bugger all , a few nose-dives was my bit , but l felt '' buzzed out''. l was hooked & it became a lifestyle for 10 years.

Moving on 20 or so years . l developed an interest in ''alternative therapies'' & heard about a thing call a float -tank . which is basically an enlosed tub full of salty water ; so salty that u float on it . It is good for relieving physical stress as the effects of gravity on ur body r minimalised.
l had a try in one , & after l got out l had the same '' buzz '' l had after a full-on surf session , without the weariness.

So l reckon that the long periods of bouyancy has got a lot to do with buzz l got , & still occassionally do , out of surfing.

everything :) best thing happend to me in the water..i cought a wave droped in its all good then dolfins got on the same wave.it was like slow moution got that god feeling

surfing keeps me sane, it erases anything that happened that day that got me sad, mad, whatever..its great exercise and you have fun doing it, you get to play with nature, you meet great people, its great seeing familiar faces out in the water, everything about surfing is great in everyway

The bopping feeling of the waves, going up & down; ramming ur face into the wave as u duck-dive, holding on tight underwater.the feeling of warm salty water on ur face..the peace once you've made it to the line-up, especially late afternoon..just lying on ur board, floating around..

Then spotting a nice set at the horizon, paddling like an iron man, placing yourself, & of course, popping up, slowly, keeping ur knees near u chin for a second just before standing up...watching the void grow before ur eyes.
And powering down the face while pushing the rail.
then slashing the lip & making a nice spray..and diving back in the water & feeling the power rolling above you, before paddling back out & starting all over...


l also love driving to the beach & putting on the wetsuit.the smell.the wax.everything, basically.;-)