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Whats the difference between the swell and the wave height
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birth     Reply with quote
pleeeese help!!
Underground     Reply with quote
l am not an expert at forecasting waves. but, swell height and wave height are pretty much the same thing. The swell is a unbroken wave just rolling through the open ocean. A wave is the swell hitting shallow water and breaking.

The Surfboard Man
http://thesurfboardman.com/
Gerardo     Reply with quote
Well, if you look at the buoy information and such, you will get the swell height, because it is a swell. But when the swell reaches the beach and turns into a breaking wave, you really estimate the height of the wave.
pill     Reply with quote
Swell is caused by storms or depressions out in the ocean. These weather effects cause swell like throwing a pebble in a pond would cause ripples.
Waves r caused by the action of the wind across the surface of the sea like blowing on a cup of coffee, & also as the previous person states, when a swell reaches shallow water & breaks into a wave.
That is the surfing/sailing answer - a physicist may answer differently!
PS a one metre swell can cause a 3 metre wave depending on the characteristics of the beach/reef.
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